Givenchy is About to be New, or Old?
Sarah Burton has just been appointed as the new creative director of the Haute Couture fashion house, Givenchy.
Givenchy Fall/Winter 2022 Look 1
Written By Jayda Cockett
For the past 13 out of 17 years Burton has dedicated her work to Alexander McQueen as their creative director. Burton stands as one of the two of five women who have worked as a Creative Director within LVMH. All that anyone can talk about now is what creative vision she will bring to Givenchy, and what she will decide to leave behind at Alexander McQueen.
Over the past three years Givenchy has been led by Creative Director Mathew M. Williams. Williams had his own vision as to where he wanted to lead Givenchy. His vision crossed through multiple genres of fashion, appearing to be inspired by cyber punk at times and within his most recent collections, he debuted items that seemed to be inspired by dark and chic minimalism. Williams gave Givenchy a different look than what Givenchy was typically known for and provided a new approach to style.
Based on Sarah Burton's history at Alexander McQueen, it seems that she will not be following her predecessor's niche for the cyberpunk aesthetic, as seen in his Fall/winter 2022 looks. Instead, it is possible that Sarah Burton could take Givenchy back to basics. Her time at Alexander McQueen expressed design work reflected upon some of what Givenchy used to be - an haute couture house with emphasis on elegant and bold designs that reflect the Parisian chic style that Givenchy has roots within.
Over time, Givenchy took a turn into a more modern and goth style of fashion, leaving behind its previous refined elegance, taking a more edgy stance. After discussing this topic with Marist students many believe that Sarah Burton was an amazing choice as creative director, yet others believe otherwise. A majority of discussions I have had about Burton starting at Givenchy have been about how she will add a fresh take to Mathew Williams’ previous style at Givenchy.
One student made a notable point, “Sarah Burton has a very specific style of fashion that she doesn't seem to stray away from. I have no doubt she will bring that same hint of gothic and minimalist style to Givenchy and make that the new face of Givenchy”. While some others shared an opposing point of view, some students believed that there is a possibility that Sarah Burton will give Givenchy a fresh start, leaving behind her old designs and style. With some quoting, “She has maintained the same style and aesthetic at Alexander McQueen for the past 13 years as Alexander McQueen’s creative director. I would think that her starting over at Givenchy would be her chance to do something different from what she was used to at Alexander McQueen”. The question remains, will she do something different from what she was doing, or will she continue to do what she is familiar with?
Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2023 Look 43
Sarah Burton's time at Alexander McQueen showed us what creative vision she may bring to Givenchy. This led to the question of, what do the people want to see Sarah Burton do at Givenchy? The input I received back was that many people wanted to see her bring Givenchy back to some of its roots. Over the years, Givenchy has transpired into something that it didn't start as. Over the years Givenchy has been taken over by multiple creative directors who have crafted it into a streetwear brand. Although that aligns with Sarah Burton's current style at Alexander McQueen, some are interested to see if she will continue this style of fashion or if she will bring some aspects of Givenchy back to its roots. One student said, “It's just so interesting to me that the Givenchy that we see and know of now, is also the Givenchy that designed Audrey Hepburn's breakfast at Tiffany's dress. It's just two completely different genres of fashion from now and then”. This brings us back to wondering if maybe Sarah Burton will use her time at Givenchy to help reconnect the brand to its original roots, or if the fashion house will experience a rebranding?
Givenchy’s collaborations and friendships with musicians and artists have been very prominent over the past few years under Mathew Williams’ creative direction. Mathew Williams was good friends with artists and designers Playboi Carti, Kanye West, Virgil Abloh and ASAP Rocky and admired their work and creativity. These friendships inspired a lot of Williams' work at Givenchy along with Givenchy as a brand. With Williams now leaving Givenchy, these close brand relationships and style inspirations may be coming to an end of an era. Is there a possibility that Sarah Burton will find style inspiration elsewhere that will cater to a new audience that's not inspired by the music industry?
Having discussed with several people what they thought the music industry and Givenchy has in store for the future, a majority felt that Givenchy will stray away from its typical streetwear artist. Instead, Sarah Burton will continue to work with her actors, models and some artists like Beyonce, Rita Ora and Lady Gaga as she has in the past. This will move her away from the streetwear style of Givenchy's past and continue her path as a clean cut and chicer, yet gothic styled designer. One particular student contributed to this opinion with this statement, “Alexander McQueen, from my perspective, isn't really a house that contributed to the same demographic that Givenchy did the past few years with rappers and musical artists. I can't see Givenchy remaining as a house collaborating with rappers and certain musical artists as it used to if Sarah Burton keeps the same style within her designs at Alexander McQueen”.
Sarah Burton's first collection is planned to be debuted in Paris, March of 2025 where we will then have our answers to what the future of Givenchy holds. Sarah Burton is an incredibly experienced designer with a magnificent taste and style concept that she has poured herself into making Alexander McQueen what it is today. She will continue her story at Givenchy doing the same or possibly something different. Only time will tell, and we will soon all see what other skills Sarah Burton can contribute to her legacy as the future of Givenchy.
