Haute Halloween

By: Claire Montague

Now that the season of Halloween is upon us, we have been immersed in the spooky season for a couple of weeks now. As an avid fashion observer, I have noticed now more than ever, costumes have become basic with almost no effort being put into them. The focus now is to look “hot” as opposed to being creative and having fun. I personally don’t want to see any more of those Amazon corsets paired with a mini skirt, identifying as a Disney Princess.

Not to say all basic Halloween costumes are bad… who doesn’t love a black cat costume?... I just want to see some more authenticity. Personally, I love costumes based off of movie or TV characters, book series, or even pop cultural references, but this Halloween season, I encourage the fashionistas amongst us to take to the runway for inspiration on costume creations.

These are my personal favorite looks that I want to see this spooky season.

In fashion circles, no one does camp like Mugler. There are numerous runway looks Mugler has blessed us with that can easily inspire Halloween costumes. In fact, I’m sure some non-fashion obsessed observers would argue that some of his looks actually are Halloween costumes!

The Mugler collection that comes to my mind first is his S/S 1992 Ready-to-Wear collection. There are a number of looks just from this collection that would be perfect to recreate this Halloween. You could be a biker wearing a motorcycle bustier with leather fringed shorts or perhaps be one of many different variations of a sexy, sparkly Mugler cowgirl. Let’s also not forget the iconic Metamorphosis (by Franz Kafka) inspired Spring 1997 Couture collection, where there were bug themed designs, ranging from bug-eyed shaped glass with antennas, to a cocoon cape and an extravagant winged butterfly. However, I can understand if you don’t want to spend Halloween dressed as a bug.

Back to the runway for a moment… Mugler’s Fall 1997 Les Chimères Couture collection includes his camp version of Dracula, fitted with a long dark cloak that encapsulates the whole body, and mythical creatures that decorate the model in colorful scales and a feathered headpiece that looks like it’s reaching for the sky. If there is anyone who can give a creative push for curating a Halloween costume, it’s Thierry Mugler.

Mugler isn’t the only runway designer who provides fodder for Halloween costumery. If you are feeling more of a witchy vibe this Halloween season, Martine Sitbon’s SS 1993 is the perfect show to look to. There are a variety of different enchanting pointy hats to take inspiration from. There’s also Yohji Yamamoto’s Fall 1998 Ready-to-Wear collection that included a quirky black knit witch hat paired with a knit dress to go along with it.

Think outside of the box with these ideas… Maybe you are a witch that loves to knit her own clothes! The Luella Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear collection also has a fantastic take on the enchanting witch with features that include the always iconic black pointy hat, but also, orange tights, a dark buttoned coat, and a puffy white sleeved blouse.

Another very haunting inspiration for a costume comes from the brilliant mind of John Galliano. If you want to think laterally, look at Galliano’s work for Maison Margiela’s Spring 2024 Couture collection where he showcased models in porcelain doll makeup, done by the talented Pat McGrath, and corset layered dresses.

If you are particularly good at makeup and want to go above and beyond this spooky season, try Galliano’s take on porcelain dolls. For a more romantic costume, John Galliano’s S/S 1994 Princess Lucretia collection is perfect for a royal princess ensemble. This collection tells the story of Russian Princess Lucretia and is a much better take on a Princess’s closet as opposed to a tight corset and miniskirts. Galliano’s gowns are elegantly made to match a more playful take on a traditional royal outfit. These gowns are decorated with long silk tulles, lace embellishments, and long whimsical hair.

To go over every one of my favorite Halloween-inspired runways looks would take ages, so I’ll stop while I’m ahead. However, some honorable high fashion designers to also look into include Alexander McQueen, Thom Browne, and Moschino (both under Franco Moschino and Jeremy Scott’s creative directions). There are so many more memorable looks, but I hope the ones mentioned above sparked some artistic creativity.